Cologne Cathedral is not only the main attraction of Cologne, but also the most convenient starting point for walking around the city. The main train station is located right next to the cathedral, so for tourists who travel by public transport, arriving in Cologne by rail is the most rational option.
Cologne walk
German sketches. Part I
German sketches. Part II
German sketches. Part III
German sketches. Part iv
German sketches
Part V. A walk in Cologne
Cologne Cathedral, which I talked about in the previous part of the report, is not only the main attraction of Cologne, but also the most convenient starting point for walking around the city.
Cologne's main railway station is located right next to the cathedral, so for tourists who travel by public transport, arriving in Cologne by rail is the most rational option. Since the cathedral and the railway station are located in the very center of the Old City, each tourist, depending on the circle of his interests, can choose a route and slowly walk to any point of interest, since the historical part of the city is not large in area. Alternatively, instead of walking around the Old Town, you can ride on such a tourist train.
Tourist train in Cologne
Those who are not interested in the Old Town can go from the cathedral, which is practically on the shore of the Rhine, along the pedestrian part of the Hohenzollern railway bridge to the other shore, and from the observation deck located on the roof of one of the tall buildings, enjoy the panorama of the city.
Hohenzollern Bridge in Cologne
However, in order to admire the city from a height, it is not necessary to cross to the other side - there is another observation deck on one of the towers of the cathedral. But she has one minus - due to the lack of an elevator, you need to climb the tower on foot, overcoming more than 500 steps.
Museum lovers can visit the Romano-German Museum and the Ludwig Museum located next to the cathedral. In the Romano-Germanic Museum you can see artifacts dating back to the Roman era - after all, Cologne is one of the oldest cities in Europe. It was founded by the ancient Romans more than 2000 years ago, as a fortification on the border with the territory inhabited by Germanic tribes, and was then called Oppidum Ubiorum by the name of the Romans-friendly Germanic tribe Ubiev. The Romano-German Museum, among other things, exhibits a unique collection of glass products dating back to those times and the well-preserved mosaic floor of one of the Roman villas.
Romano-Germanic Museum
The Ludwig Museum, by contrast, is a collection of contemporary art.
Ludwig Museum
We do not consider ourselves to be connoisseurs and connoisseurs of high art, and, as a rule, having arrived in an unfamiliar city, we prefer hiking. Therefore, after meeting with the cathedral, we went down to the Hohenzollern bridge and, turning right, went along the Rhine promenade towards the Deutscherbrücke bridge.
The day was a weekday, the active tourist season has not yet begun, so there were relatively few people walking on the promenade. We arrived in Cologne the day after the end of the famous annual Cologne Carnival and the city, obviously, was resting after seven days of unbridled fun.
Rhine Promenade in Cologne
Rhine Promenade in Cologne
Near the Hohenzollern bridge, berths of river passenger ships are located.
Passenger berth
Passenger berth
From Cologne on a boat, you can go downstream - to Dusseldorf, or upstream - to Bonn and Koblenz. The Rhine is Germany's largest river, praised in poetry, songs and legends. If in Russia the most important and beloved river is the Volga Mother, in Germany, without a doubt, the Rhine-Father.
After a short walk along the promenade, we went to the Church of St. Martin, or, as her people call it, Big St. Martin. This church is probably the most famous and most beautiful of the Romanesque churches of Cologne. And, if not mistaken, the highest.
Church of St. Martin
Before World War II, there were 40 Romanesque churches in Cologne. All these churches were built in the period until the XII century, when the Gothic style replaced the Romanesque style. After the Second World War, when the completely destroyed city was reborn from ruins and ashes, only 12 of the 40 mentioned churches were restored and reconstructed. The oldest of them is the church of St. Gereon was built in the IV century. I was very curious to look at her, but, unfortunately, we did not reach her. But they examined the largest (albeit not the tallest) Neumarkt square of the Romanesque churches - the Church of the Holy Apostles.
Church of the Holy Apostles
There were other churches on our route, there are quite a lot of them in the Old Town of Cologne.
Church in Cologne
By the way, upon arrival to Germany, one peculiarity immediately struck my eye - on the spiers of most churches, instead of crosses, males were installed.
Cockerel on a church steeple
Cockerel on a church steeple
In Holland, where we went from Germany on a bus sightseeing tour, the same thing is observed. To my question about the roosters on church spiers, the guide answered that this feature is inherent mainly in Protestant churches. Upon returning from the trip, I searched for the answer to this question on the Internet - I did not find anything intelligible. Although the cock has long been considered one of the symbols of Christianity, the guide's answer seems quite plausible - after all, Northern Germany and Holland are territories inhabited mainly by Protestants.
Church with a cockerel on a steeple
However, let's continue about Cologne. Given that the city was completely destroyed during the Second World War, the concept of "Old City" in Cologne is very arbitrary. Buildings, even stylized "antique", were built relatively recently, as, for example, these pretty houses near the church of St. Martin.
Cute houses
Having examined these houses and the church, we turned to the side opposite the promenade, and, passing through the courtyards, went to Alter Markt Square, where the building of the old city hall is located.
Alter Markt Square in Cologne
Although, to be precise, the back side of the building is looking at Alter Markt, and its facade with the main entrance faces another square - Rathusplatz, which is now all pitted during archaeological excavations.
The Cologne Town Hall is noteworthy in many ways. Firstly, it is considered the oldest in all of Germany. Secondly, 124 sculptural images adorn its main tower. Among the figures captured in the sculptures are popes, kings, emperors, archbishops, the most famous citizens and holy patrons of Cologne.
Cologne Old Town Hall
The pedestal of one of the sculptures - the archbishop of Cologne Konrad von Hochstaden (the very one that laid the cathedral) made in an openly obscene manner. By this, the author obviously expressed the dislike of the inhabitants of Cologne for this historical character. It is known that the townspeople in the Middle Ages waged a long stubborn struggle to free themselves from the power of their lords - the archbishops of Cologne. Their struggle was successful in 1288 as a result of the Battle of Vorringen that I mentioned in one of the previous parts of the report. De facto, after this battle, Cologne became a free imperial city, although de jure was considered the possession of the archbishops for almost 200 years.
Another episode of the struggle of Cologne for their rights and freedoms is depicted in a bas-relief above the main entrance to the town hall. The bas-relief author captured the duel of the mayor of Cologne Hermann Grün with a lion.
Main entrance to the town hall
In short, this story is as follows. Herman Grün was one of the most implacable opponents of the archbishop. Archbishop's vassals lured him into a trap and released a lion on him. The courageous burgomaster did not save and, like a gladiator on the stage of the Roman circus, fought with the lion and killed him. The tyrant-archbishop and his relatives were left with a nose, and the cause of the struggle for freedom and democracy triumphed. In general, a happy end, almost like in a Hollywood movie.
And finally, the third feature of the Cologne City Hall. A clock is installed on its side, which faces Alter Markt Square, an integral part of which is a bearded head. At the beginning of every hour, when the clock begins to beat, the head sticks out its tongue and teases everyone who looks at it.
Cologne Town Hall Clock
In the end, someone got tired of it and this someone on one of the buildings, standing on the opposite side of the square, set something no less vulgar in spite of the vulgar head.
You are our language, and we are yours ...
And on Alter Markt Square there is a monument to a very popular historical character in Cologne - General Johann (Jan) von Werth. On the route of our walk, we saw quite a few interesting monuments and even more fountains, which are real works of art. In this part of the report I will not be distracted by their description, but rather I will devote the whole next part to this topic.
From Alter Markt Square we went for a walk along the streets and squares of Cologne completely randomly, as they say, where our eyes look. Here and there, the consequences of the just-held annual Cologne Carnival were visible. Judging by the large amount of garbage left at the former carnival venues, the townspeople and guests of the city came off simply not childishly.
The aftermath of the annual Cologne Carnival
Obviously, it is difficult for the employees of the city beautification service after a week of general stormy fun to readily adjust to the usual labor rhythm. So who, if not the Russians, celebrating the New Year for two weeks, to understand their feelings and sensations.
At first, a large number of small bottles - "bastards" - lying on the pavement were surprised.
The most popular carnival displacement
Everything became clear when in the window of one of the stores we saw a carnival belt, a “bandolier,” loaded with a large number of such bottles. But really convenient! It is enough for a participant of carnival events taking place on the city streets to gird around such a "bandolier" to have fun non-stop and keep himself in good shape, without being distracted by visiting bars and restaurants.
In general, as I said, the Old City of Cologne does not give the impression of the old. True, on one of the streets we went to the place where the Roman watchtower, miraculously preserved until our time, stands,
Roman watchtower
and not far from Neumarkt Square, they examined the medieval castle gates of the 13th century.
Medieval fortress gate
Most of the buildings of the Old Town are buildings of modern architecture, but this does not make walking around the historic center of Cologne less interesting.
Germany. Koln.
Of course, for the locals everything here seems familiar and ordinary, but for us, Russian tourists, any European city, regardless of whether it is large or small, is a source of new positive impressions. Here, literally at every step, the gaze has something to cling to - on the route of the walk you will always find something funny, amazing or unusual.
I carry all my things with me
Monument to the Mutants
"Photographer" on the ledge of the building
Among other things, surprising and unusual, next to Neumarkt Square we saw just such a tower. It is called Richmodisturm.
Richmodisturm Tower
The upper part of the Richmodisturm tower
This tower is part of a large mansion that used to be on this site. Her story is connected with one of the city legends of Cologne. The legend, in turn, is based on very real events. In the 14th century, the rich patrician Mengis von Aducht lived and lived in the mansion. More than anything, he loved his wife, the beautiful Richmodis. During the plague epidemic, Richmodis died. The inconsolable husband ordered to put all the ornaments and valuables she had in the coffin. The grave diggers, knowing about this, decided to profit and at night after the burial they dug up the grave. Opening the lid of the coffin, they saw that Richmodis moved and opened her eyes. Crazed with horror, the villains rushed at all costs to report this to her husband. Richodis got out of the coffin and went home after them. By the time the grave diggers had woken up and stirred the whole house of Mengis von Aduht, she had already approached the gate, started knocking on them and asking her to let her in. At this time, horses stomped loudly at the stable. Trembling with fear, the patricians shouted: "Get out, ghost! I would rather believe that these horses can climb up the tower of the house than that you are my wife!" And immediately after these words, two horses escaped from the stable, jumped up a spiral staircase straight into the room at the very top of the tower and, opening the shutters, stuck their heads out of the window. And then everyone believed that Richmodis was alive. To perpetuate this miracle, the rich husband Richmodis ordered to make a sculpture with two horse heads and install it on the top of the tower. Of course, you and I understand that Richmodis was in a lethargic dream, and the horse story is just a beautiful fiction. But if there were no such inventions, our life would be very boring.
Numerous street musicians also help maintain a positive attitude while walking around the city. In Cologne, they are for every taste and color.
African tunes on the streets of Cologne
Man band
Cheerful organ grinder
Of course, a short walk in Cologne is not enough to make a more or less complete picture of him. In order to get acquainted with its most interesting places, you need at least three to four days. Those who have this time should definitely go up to the observation deck and enjoy the bird's-eye view of the city, take a funicular ride from one bank of the Rhine to another, visit the famous museums of chocolate and cologne, take a boat trip along the Rhine. Judging by the reviews on the Internet, Cologne is also very good for shopping enthusiasts - in the historical center on several neighboring streets near the cathedral, there are a lot of stores with goods from all the most famous world brands.
This is not the end of the story about Cologne. In the next part, as I already said, I will talk about the numerous monuments and fountains of Cologne.
German sketches. Part VI
German sketches. Part VII
German sketches. Part VIII
German sketches. Part IX
German sketches. Part x
